In the never-ending pursuit of the newest and most exciting new foods, Providence tends to overlook the establishments that have been doing things right for a lot of years, but don’t need to do anything new. Pot au Feu is at the top of that list. The French bistro classics coming out of the restaurant’s kitchen are as delicious today as they were the first time I had them. That kind of perfection is the kind that only comes with age, and from honoring traditions.

My favorite tradition at Pot au Feu is their Beaujolais Nouveau Party, which happens every year on the third Wednesday in November. At the event, which starts at 10pm and goes to the wee hours, owner Bob Burke uncorks a new wine every 20 minutes in a countdown to midnight, when it’s Thursday and that year’s first Beaujolais Nouveau can be opened.

I wrote about this year’s party for Forbes: read the story here. There was much wine, some opera singing, a lot of the restaurant’s incredible chicken liver pate, and more wine.